Here is my second installment of the New Zealand Chronicles. I just finished putting together the photo websites - yes, there are now two. Each site is only allowed to have 150 photos, so view BOTH sites to see all the pics. If you view it as a slide show you will not be able to read the captions on the photos (FYI). Also, sign the guest book if you wish to make comments. Here are the addresses:
http://kkeith4.photosite.com/
http://jcrouch5.photosite.com/
Unless otherwise noted, all scenic photos are by me with my thrilling Canon Rebel XT digital camera (excuse the dust spot on a few photos, I hope I have that fixed now).

And now...for some lengthy reading (sorry - its for me to remember too!)

Our South Island Adventure

Friday afternoon we took the train into Wellington, and then hopped on board the Bluebridge ferry to cross Cook Strait to Picton on the South Island. The 3 ½ hour ferry ride took us through Marlborough Sounds - beautiful green hills jutting into the water. As we look back now on the ferry trip, it was nothing compared to what was yet to be seen!

At the Picton harbor, the owner of Bayview Backpackers greeted us. He took us to what would be the first hostel of many for Jenn and me. All the hostels here generally have a lounge area, full kitchen, community bath and rooms with beds or bunks. The cost for a bed is cheap; occasionally linens and towels are extra. Backpackers on tight budgets find hostels are a great place to stay the night. We met many fellow adventurers from all over the world (Canada, Britain, Denmark, Switzerland, Japan, Australia, Germany) - the trend seems to be to buy an around-the-world ticket to see the world in one year.

Saturday morning we began our adventure with a hike along the Snout Track - one of the hiking trails with a great view of Queen Charlotte Sound. "Tramping" is a popular way to see New Zealand - hiking on the many track and trails around the country, sometimes for days or weeks at a time. We had a picnic at the top of the Snout, then made our way back down, getting hot and sweaty for the first time since we arrived in NZ. In the afternoon we borrowed the hostel's free kayaks to navigate the coves around the marina. It was "brilliant", peaceful and serene as we were blessed with a pleasant, sunny day.

Sunday morning we rented a car to begin our drive South. What a trip getting into the car on the right side to drive! The rental company had a sticker near the speedometer (in kilometers mind you) that says KEEP LEFT as a friendly reminder. I was nervous the night before thinking that the gas and brake pedals would be switched, but they weren't - but the turn signal was - so I kept using the windshield wipers to let other drivers know I was turning! We drove 30 minutes to Blenheim - a town in the Marlborough Wine Region. There we rented bicycles, were given helmets, bottles of water and a map, and pedaled away to tour the local wineries. We stopped at three vineyards to sample their wines and take in the views. A happy, relaxing way to enjoy the area - another great day with the weather (except for the head-on wind - which was torture!).

That evening we drove down to Kaikoura through THICK fog. We were able to see a few snowcapped mountains right before the fog rolled in quickly from the Pacific Ocean. The highway is known for the amazing coastal views, but we were disappointed as we were only able to see just around the next curve on the windy roads. (Our trip back north on the train gave us a clear view the next week). We stayed in the Dolphin Lodge, enjoying the hot spa out back. I got to see a shooting star! I still don't recognize the night sky (when it can be seen).

Monday we were supposed to go on a whale-watching cruise, but it was cancelled due to the fog. We did get to see a seal colony with real live WILD seals! We were able to get really close to take some photos of one particularly itchy seal (scratched the whole time). We enjoyed a walk on the Kaikoura beach, admiring the black stones and powerful waves.

Back in the car to Christchurch, our next major stop. This drive took us through rolling green hills and past plenty of sheep and lambs. In Chch, we walked around the Cathedral and plaza, ate at a pizzeria, and then checked into the Rolleston House for the night. This hostel was situated conveniently right across the street from the Botanic Garden, Christ's College and Canterbury Museum, and down the street from the Art Gallery and downtown shops. We went our own ways the next morning to explore the city. I spent several hours in the art gallery enjoying the works, including that of many New Zealand artists. Later I walked around the city center with Jenn, went to the Canterbury museum, Botanic Garden and wandered around the Art Centre. Definitely a fun, thriving, active city in the South Island with a distinctly English influence. That evening we had an invitation to a university student's house for dinner, Renata, one of many contacts I have made through family and friends back home. Even though we had never met, Renata had a feast prepared for us including delicious dessert. Her flat mate joined us as well and we had great conversations.

Wednesday we attempted to ride the Chch Gondola, but due to cloudy skies and pricey ticket we drove on to the small town of Oamaru to look for penguins! We drove out to the little Blue Penguin colony, but we were feeling tight with our money still, so we decided to skip paying for a seat to watch the penguins come out at dusk. Instead we found the site of the Yellow-Eyed Penguin colony (free!) and waited in a little hut to see if any would emerge. The Yellow-Eyed Penguins are the most endangered of all penguins. We saw about 8 - including a few right out of the ocean and two that wandered right up to the lookout. Flash cameras were prohibited, so I didn't get a great photo (plus it was again very foggy). Back in the car, we found a renovated hostel called the Empire Hotel to stay the night in Oamaru. The hostel had an old piano, pool table and laundry facilities so I did a load as I was running out of socks! I played on the piano from a book of American patriotic songs I found on the stand - turns out the entire hostel could hear me pounding out the National Anthem from the basement - I hope I didn't instigate any negative US sentiment.

Thursday - On to Queenstown, the "Adventure Capital". This drive was beautiful, with lots of snowcapped mountains and inland NZ scenery. We walked around downtown Queenstown and ate at The Cow (great pizza, thanks Tom M!)- quite tourist centered, not beautiful like Christchurch or Wellington, so I did most of my gift shopping here (MERRY CHRISTMAS - September, wow I am ahead of the game). We stayed at the Alpine Lodge, planning our next few days, excited about our adventure activity package the next morning.

Jet boat! Helicopter! Luge! Gondola! Wow! We had some exciting adventures packed into a few hours on Friday morning. Flying down the river doing 360s in the jet boat with the freezing wind whipping our faces, soaring above the city and mountains on an thrilling helicopter ride up to the Gondola, zipping down the luge tracks 5 times of silly fun, and gliding down the mountain on the Gondola back to earth.

After the adrenaline wore off, we headed out for the 5 ½ hour drive to Milford Sound. Many of the scenes from Lord of the Rings were filmed near Queenstown, so of course our drives offered even more amazing sights than in the movies (even though we didn't visit any of the actual filming locations). Driving to the fiord was magnificent - winding roads through the mountains, signs to warn of falling rocks and avalanche, and rainforest! Milford Sound is actually a fiord (carved out by a glacier) in Fiordland National Park maintained by the Department of Conservation. There is only one place to stay - at the Milford Sound Lodge. Electricity comes from a generator since the lodge is so far out, so to conserve power the generator is turned off at 11:30 pm. We were a bit nervous about no heat, but we were comfortable - and the constant rain was comforting while we slept. Did I mention that this country is intense about recycling and conservation?!

Saturday morning we headed over to the dock to board our boat to cruise the fiord. WOW - even though it was rainy, misty, overcast - the weather provided mysterious ambiance as we glided on the water. Waterfalls everywhere from the melting snow on the mountains. The photos do not do it justice; you just have to go yourself! Every angle as you turn 360 degrees was amazing.

Back on the road through the national park back to Queenstown. Stayed again in the Alpine Lodge, early to bed, as we had to wake up SEVERLY early to turn in our car and catch the bus. Much to our dismay, the bus turned out to be a shuttle van (10 hour ride), but it was actually cozy and fun. Our driver pulled out a bottle of wine for his passengers halfway through the trip - so we coasted along sipping wine in classic shuttle bus style!

Our drop-off was Greymouth, completing our drive along the West coast and the Tasman Sea. We stayed at Neptune's Backpackers - another renovated hotel. Not much going on there, but the area is known for jade carvings, so Jenn and I had fun shopping on Monday morning. That afternoon we took the TranzAlpine Express to Christchurch. Turned out that the night before there was a major snowstorm that covered Christchurch in heavy snow, canceling school and creating hubbub. Our train was delayed at both ends, but the view was spectacular as we rode past freshly fallen snow.

In Christchurch we stayed at the YMCA (sing with me!). Tuesday we again woke up VERY early (4:45 am!) to catch the TranzCoastal train up to Picton where we met the InterIslander Ferry and headed home to Wellington. We met a cute 8-year-old girl on the ferry named Emily, who played games with us on the ride and distracted us from our seasickness (very rough waters). Ask me about Emily if you want to hear about her missionary family's amazing kidnapping experience in PNG!

The last leg of the journey - walking up the steep hill to our flat with our massive amounts of luggage and souvenirs was the worst part, but we made it!

THE END!
More exciting adventure to come.

Here is the first email I sent out documenting my adventures in New Zealand (hopefully with photos this time!)

We made it to New Zealand! After the original idea came up over a year and a half ago to live down under, it actually happened. We thought it might not when at the Auckland airport we were told all flights were delayed until further notice due to dense fog! After a 1 ½ hour delay we were on board our last flight to our new home. I'm not sure when it hit me that I was actually here - maybe when I saw snowcapped Mt Taranaki from the plane window as we were flying from Auckland to Wellington, or when we piled into our new friend Jonathan's car to drive to our flat and the steering wheel was on the WRONG side of the car (I still can't remember which way to look first for traffic when I am crossing the street), or during the drive around the city seeing the people, shops, boats, mountains.WOW!

Jenn, Russell and I had so many questions for Jonathan, a friend of Katie Boesdorfer (Sky Ranch) who volunteered to pick us up and help us in whatever way he could. Jonathan is from the US, but plans on staying for good in NZ. He works for the police dept as a weapons trainer - basically playing paintball everyday! What a life!
He filled us in on some of the basics of NZ as we drove to Tawa (crammed in the car with all our luggage).

Tawa is a suburb just north of Wellington on Hwy 1 - our home base for the next 6 months. Our flat is 3B Kiwi Crescent - the lower level of a house. Our landlords were waiting when we arrived. What a blessing they were to us! A fully furnished flat, even with a care package and toothpaste. The flat has three main rooms - kitchen/living area, bedroom and bathroom. Jenn and I sleep on twin beds in the small bedroom while Russell sleeps on a foldout divan in the living area. There is plenty of space in the main room, so I think we could handle three to four guests there (once Russell goes home in October).

After we signed our Tenancy agreement, Jonathan took us down to eat lunch. Tawa has a Main Rd with several bakeries, various shops, two banks and a grocery store called Woolworths. We ate at a bakery, made our phone calls home, then headed to the next town up called Porirua. Porirua has a mall with a Kmart inside! We had to purchase a few necessities, so did some shopping. Jenn and I also bought prepaid cells phones. Text messaging is the main form of communication here, so that was a must in our plan. Jonathan then took us home and left us to fend for ourselves, with the comment to make sure we called if we needed ANYTHING. He said he thinks there may be a petrol station that stocks Dr Pepper.

The night was a bit rough, as we had no heat and no hot water. The heater would not be installed until Monday and the water heater was not turned on. I finally found the switch the next morning, so we were quite ready to take showers to wash away all the dirt of travel.

Sunday afternoon we ventured out to find the train stop, hopped on board and made our way into Wellington. We had no particular agenda, so we wandered around eating lunch in a Belgian restaurant, window shopping, getting on the internet at the downtown public library, exploring the ground floor of the Te Papa museum, and enjoying other sites along the bay. That night we were so tired and cold, we got some NZ wine, ordered a pizza for delivery from Dominos, and went to bed around 8pm!

Monday morning the men from the electric company came to install our heater! GLORY! We were thrilled, but disappointed as we were informed that the heater would only heat up at night then dispense the stored heat throughout the next day - another cold day inside. Our group made plans to run errands in Tawa for the day. Jenn and I set up bank accounts at the Bank of New Zealand and applied for Woolworths cards (just like grocery stores discount cards in the US - what's the point?). I wandered around Main Rd finding two thrift shops, a knitting store, a craft store and several bakeries and cafes. I also went into the local branch of the public library to find out about getting a library card and attending special interest classes at the local college. Turns out they offer night classes each term - some of which are digital photography, garden design, metal jewelry, wine, woodcraft, and Christmasfood presents. I will definitely try to take a class at some point during our stay.

Jenn and I took a long walk around our neighborhood before dinner. We discovered a small park and a small nature reserve with walking trails. The plants and flowers are amazing here - so fragrant and colorful. I am enjoying using my new digital camera.

That afternoon we introduced ourselves to our upstairs neighbors. Brook, one of the four people who live there, asked us to dinner after he consulted his wife by text message. Four people live upstairs. Brook and Katie are a couple my age who have been married almost three years. Katie is a teacher at the Tawa high school. Brook in the youth minister at The Rock - a church in Wellington. He also helps lead the church plant for 18-30 year olds called Blueprint downtown on Sat and Thurs. Andy and Cindy are young singles that have rooms in the flat - Andy works, takes classical guitar classes, and helps lead worship at church while Cindy is 19 and takes classes at the university for business administration. Cindy also works at a local video store, so she said she would get us a Maori movie that is a good picture of that culture (vs those with British decent). We had a WONDERFUL time eating stir-fry around their table and talking about all sorts of topics and issues. Katie and Cindy love to talk with American accents, so they had a lot of fun listening to us. We all discussed Christianity in NZ - Brook said that NZ is the most secular westernized nation in the world. Many people have no idea who Jesus is having never heard his name before except as a swear word. He said they do many outreaches at the Blueprint church. He said many people are several generations atheist and because they live in such a perfect place that they feel no need for God. I was so surprised to hear this, as it seemed that I heard the opposite. I am excited to visit their church and see how God is moving in this country! We stayed at their house for about 3 hours - Katie said it's an open door policy with them.

WOW!